9-22-16 

I'm looking to do something different to change things up a bit.

Below is the most requested Jeep from callers

ROT FREE 1986 Jeep CJ7 Laredo

w Dana 44 in classic black.

I'm going to build it like it was mine and then sell it to someone who calls in and wants a premium, well built to keep forever kind of CJ.  Feel free to follow along.  It will be done, done well and for sale before snowmobile season.

Step One:  

Start with something good and not something cheap or pretty.  Quality starts with the foundation, not with the pretty new aluminum siding over the patchwork.

(working by myself I drove this in the shop Thursday 9/8/16 above photo)

By Tuesday (9/13) all the sheet metal is at media blast and the engine is at the machine shop for a far better than Mexican low cost crate engine rebuild).

Notice the lack of body rot on the floors and sides of this Jeep.

No, these photos aren't sexy but they're honest before shiny paint photos that other shops are NOT showing you.  

This is a Jeep worth owning for more than a few years before the bodywork falls out of the shiny paint.  A Jeep like this is a good investment you can enjoy.  

 Body just went to media blast and the engine to the machine shop.  No cheap crate motors built in Mexico and no awful Philippino bodies.

 
Why am I showing these bolts?  These are the not broken body mount bolts from taking this Jeep apart.  This is common in my shop for the tubs I sell and the Jeeps I have. 

I realize to most people they won't understand the significance of this unless you've tried to take some out.  The bad can of worms opened when body mounts break is the beginning of an icy uphill climb in slippers.

In my shop we cut Jeeps up with bad body mounts.

Original handsome rot free frame back from blast and paint 9/24/16

The frame is the foundation of your Jeep.  Do you really think a flaky, rusty, patched up foundation is worthy of all the time and labor required to build your classic Jeep?

The below is a typical frame from my shop 

Because this will be one of the nicest Jeeps in the world when done it is important that the VIN from the frame and body match.  Note the factory stamping of the VIN to match the body showing this is original to this machine.  It is the last numbers of the VIN noting its sequence at original assembly.  You won't be able to see this on many flaky rusty frames.

 9-27-2016

Engine at my local machine shop in hot tank bored .030

Premium rebuild parts like Federal Mogul, Melling, and Fel Pro Made in USA   I had a local enthusiast in my shop buying parts this weekend who said he loved original Jeeps and was donning a Rugged Ridge hat....which is a company providing all Chinese products manufactured as cheaply as possible.  Sigh.  Honestly the words, "Made on China" hurt my soul and has nothing to do with the heritage of the American Jeep. 

Thre are few restoration parts out there made in the US which is why all my used parts are so important to what I do.  They allow me to heal the Jeeps I get in my shop AND why on occasion I won't sell something I have that is requested.

 The next photo is of my steering components and u-joints.  The brands are Moog, Timken, Spicer (Dana) and Federal Mogul. These items could all be purchased for about 1/3 what I spent in Crown, Omix Ada which are all brands made in China.  I wouldn't put those items on my Jeep so I'm not putting them on yours.  Buying a Chinese bearing when you have a choice to buy US made is akin to buying disposable tools from Harbor Freight.   Cheap tools are like deals on cheap Jeeps...."that run great!....I only need a body, frame"  I've been hearing those words for about 10 years now.

You get what you pay for.

Have some pride in your country and buy American when you can.  Employ your neighbor thereby employing yourself.

I re-use OEM USA or North American made parts when I can like these original rotors (turned and originally from Canada) and Bucyrus, Ohio made Timken roller bearings (not scored).

Did you know some CJs were Made in Canada?

Our brothers (and sisters) across the pond North of Cleveland are good folks also making quality goods.  My life story can't be told without strong ties to Canada.

This is just some of the parts sandblasted and professionaly painted.  This is part of what it takes to restore a Jeep.  Truly restoring a Jeep takes time and money.  There's no shortcuts to doing it right.  People often call me about "restored" Jeeps for $10-$20k.  The truth is that the word (restored) is undefined and over-used in the industry.  My definition of restored is much different than the guy selling a newly painted vehicle.

The chassis in progress complete w new Moog ball joints, tie rod ends, rebuilt steer box, Monroe Made in USA shocks, OEM springs, oem like USA made steering stbilizer and new rubber bushings.  I chose rubber as it rides better and poly tends to squeak and get super hard over time.  I want this Jeep to ride and drive like a new one.

Below Jeep is SOLD  

Below Jeep here for a day and sold to a caller....

83 CJ7 Renegade 6 cyl 5 speed

1985 Jeep CJ7 Renegade

$21,500  

SOLD! 7/25/16

ALL ORIGINAL METAL....No undercoating  No Patches

Cold AIR CONDITIONING

6 Cyl 5 Speed

I have BEFORE PAINT photos of this machine in original faded paint without rot.

ZERO rot (ever)and 75k original miles

4" Lift w AC, Hard top, Hard doors, 6 cyl 5speed

Tach, clock, trac loc, 20 gallon tank New 33" tires and 

Factory black frame



Coming Soon

Coming Soon 7/20...SOLD 7/22

1980 WIDETRAC Laredo Automatic in Original Paint and very well cared for

Best of both differential generations.  Big brakes and better lock outs of 1980 differentials and width of widetrac 82 and up.  No custom parts required for this upgrade.

Gorgeous one year only original interior

SOLD 6-17-16

Original rot free original red paint and only 40k miles.

1982 Jeep

Scrambler

Below photo from delivery to customer in far upstate New York

1986 Rot Free

ONE OWNER

CJ7 Renegade

DEPOSIT TAKEN 5/22

SOLD 6/7/16

Original paint

Rot Free, shiny original floors

Waxable frame

w Dana 44 rear

Original soft top

Full Hard Doors

Original chrome wheels

6 cylinder 5 speed

Marchal fog lights 

Look for our original OEM Jeep BODIES and FRAMES to the left

JEEPS FOR SALE ARE EITHER HERE ON THE HOME PAGE OR ON THE "JEEPS FOR SALE" TAB TO THE LEFT...

  Look to the left for the JEEPS FOR SALE tab for more photos and info and remember, most Jeeps are commited to before listed on the site.

I generally only put finished products on the site. If you call, details of their finishing can be done your way...tires, wheels, interior, tops etc.

 ALWAYS feel free to call to request parts as we have more used 76 to 86 CJ parts than anywhere I have visited coast to coast...

As a sample...We have 75 dashes, Levi seats, Differentials, Rocker trim, 50+ tire carriers, 50+ grills, 25 Dana 300 transfer cases...etc etc

The building and lot is full of 76 to 86 CJ parts. 

Below photo taken 3-2014 

 Nice Screensaver photo below taken 12-15-13 (please help yourself to it) :) 

Lots of Jeep CJ7 Hardtop (s) and Hard doors for sale.  We ship doors!

   Most Jeeps left last year that we never lislted for sale. 

Good products.  Good problems! 

Thanks for reading.

Rudy

Specializing in HONESTLY advertised,

 preferably rot free 1976 to 1986 Jeep

 CJs and quality Jeep CJ used parts

since 2002

* SPOT WELDS: Original Jeep CJs have factory spot welds down the sides of them where they were assembled in the factory and is a sign of original metal.  Jeep CJs should NOT be smooth when you look down the side of them.  Smooth sided Jeeps may have been patched or have body filler due to rust.

** ROT: I am sometimes asked, "No rot, does that mean no rust?"  In my best attempt to explain this without splitting hairs, rust occurs when paint is scratched or when brake rotors sit for a humid day.  It is for that reason I avoid the word RUST as ALL vehicles, even a new one, has rust.  ROT by Rudy's definition is rust on metal that under reasonable circumstances can't be sanded away without leaving a rust hole.  Rot can be hidden above gas tanks, underneath roll bars etc but in most places on these Jeeps, it is transparent.  I also term ROT as bubbles under the paint and generally we don't sell Jeeps with bubbling, flaky rust.  If it has it, we will show it in the photos.  Bubbling rust may be sandable but is harder to guess at without actually digging at it.  Experience gives me an upper hand on what original metal will hold up and what won't but only sanding it makes it factual.  I hope this helps explain some more of the ambiguity out of our language and people's different perceptions of rust and rot in our best attempt to sell the best sheet metal CJs left in the world.  If you don't mind rust or patched metal floors, sides, frames etc, we are not the Jeep shop for you.