Please add us to your bookmarks and tell a friend!
Rudy's Classic Jeeps LLC
19095 State Route 568
Findlay, OH 45840
Selling some of the best ORIGINAL sheet metal Jeep CJs and original used CJ parts left in the world.
We have more used 76-86 CJ PARTS than anyone HERE.
NOTE: Most photos on the site can be enlarged by clicking the plus sign bottom right of each photo!
SITE UPDATED 10/20/16
Some of my current inventory out of the shop for a Fall cleaning
and a weekend bonfire.
(photo taken 10-14-2016)
Left to right: 66 California Kaiser Jeep Gladiator w original 327, factory winch and AC
83 Rot free 75k mile Jeep Scrambler
86 2 Owner Jeep CJ7 w Dana 44 46,000 mile available here
85 One owner 12,000 mile original mile CJ7 available here
1981 100% Original Paint Rot Free Jeep Scrambler w original side boards, rebuilt engine and T176 4 spd
2006 Jeep LJ Rubicon w Dynatrac 60s, Banks Turbo, Heated Leather seats, TNT Armor on 37s
Not photoed: 85 CJ7 body off old restore desert CJ7,
New build 86 CJ7 Laredo
Ugly 84 California builder Jeep CJ7 no one has had enough wisdom to buy.
Build of an available to be purchased
original rot free 1986 Jeep CJ7 Laredo w Dana 44
(Lower on this home page)
Other past built Rudy's CJs like this
TWO LOW MILE COLLECTOR CJ7 JEEPS!
For the first time I will consider trades of Wranglers 97 and up (w rust as parts Jeeps or w-o rust) (no YJs please) projects, interesting clean classic cars without rust, and I/O boats will be considered.
12K Original Mile
Rot free unmodified 1985 Jeep CJ7
For more details click
Super rare last half year 2 owner
1986 CJ7 w only
6 cyl & Dana 44 W 5 Speed in original Black paint w Hardtop and Full hard doors
Carfax documented mileage and 2 owner CJ (same original owner for all but thast 2 years when he sold it to his 79 year old neighbor who didn't drive it)
For more details please click
I'm looking to do something different to change things up a bit.
Below is the most requested Jeep from callers
ROT FREE 1986 Jeep CJ7 Laredo
w Dana 44 in classic black.
I'm going to build it like it was mine and then sell it
to someone who calls in and wants a premium, well built to keep forever kind of CJ. Feel free to follow along. It will be done, done well and for sale before Christmas.
If you've been good this year perhaps it could end up under your tree!
Start with something good and not something cheap or pretty. Quality starts with the foundation, not with the pretty new aluminum siding over the patchwork.
(working by myself I drove this in the shop Thursday 9/8/16 above photo)
By Tuesday (9/13) all the sheet metal is at media blast and the engine is at the machine shop for a far better than Mexican low cost crate engine rebuild).
Notice the lack of body rot on the floors and sides of this Jeep.
No, these photos aren't sexy but they're honest before shiny paint photos that other shops are NOT showing you.
This is a Jeep worth owning for more than a few years before the bodywork falls out of the shiny paint. A Jeep like this is a good investment you can enjoy.
Body just went to media blast and the engine to the machine shop. No cheap crate motors built in Mexico and no awful Philippino bodies.
Why am I showing these bolts? These are the not broken body mount bolts from taking this Jeep apart. This is common in my shop for the tubs I sell and the Jeeps I have.
I realize to most people they won't understand the significance of this unless you've tried to take some out. The bad can of worms opened when body mounts break is the beginning of an icy uphill climb in slippers.
In my shop we cut Jeeps up with bad body mounts.
Original handsome rot free frame back from blast and paint 9/24/16
The frame is the foundation of your Jeep. Do you really think a flaky, rusty, patched up foundation is worthy of all the time and labor required to build your classic Jeep?
The below is a typical frame from my shop
Because this will be one of the nicest Jeeps in the world when done it is important that the VIN from the frame and body match. Note the factory stamping of the VIN to match the body showing this is original to this machine. It is the last numbers of the VIN noting its sequence at original assembly. You won't be able to see this on many flaky rusty frames.
Engine at my local machine shop in hot tank bored .030
Premium rebuild parts like Federal Mogul, Melling, and Fel Pro Made in USA I had a local enthusiast in my shop buying parts this weekend who said he loved original Jeeps and was donning a Rugged Ridge hat....which is a company providing all Chinese products manufactured as cheaply as possible. Sigh. Honestly the words, "Made in China" hurt my soul and has nothing to do with the heritage of the American Jeep.
Thre are few restoration parts out there made in the US which is why all my used parts are so important to what I do. They allow me to heal the Jeeps I get in my shop AND why on occasion I won't sell something I have that is requested.
The next photo is of my steering components and u-joints. The brands are Moog, Timken, Spicer (Dana) and Federal Mogul. These items could all be purchased for about 1/3 what I spent in Crown, Omix Ada which are all brands made in China. I wouldn't put those items on my Jeep so I'm not putting them on yours. Buying a Chinese bearing when you have a choice to buy US made is akin to buying disposable tools from Harbor Freight. Cheap tools are like deals on cheap Jeeps...."that run great!....I only need a body, frame" I've been hearing those words for about 20 years now.
You get what you pay for.
Have some pride in your country and buy American when you can. Employ your neighbor thereby employing yourself.
I re-use OEM USA or North American made parts when I can like these original rotors (turned and originally from Canada) and Bucyrus Ohio made Timken roller bearings (not scored).
Did you know some CJs were Made in Canada?
Our brothers (and sisters) across the pond North of Cleveland are good folks also making quality goods. My life story can't be told without strong ties to Canada.
This is just some of the parts sandblasted and professionaly painted. This is part of what it takes to restore a Jeep. Truly restoring a Jeep takes time and money. There's no shortcuts to doing it right. People often call me about "restored" Jeeps for $10-$20k. The truth is that the word 'restored' is undefined and over-used in the industry. My definition of restored is much different than the guy selling a newly painted vehicle.
The chassis in progress complete w new Moog ball joints, tie rod ends, rebuilt steer box, Monroe Made in USA shocks, OEM springs, oem like USA made steering stbilizer and new rubber bushings. I chose rubber as it rides better and poly tends to squeak and get super hard over time. I want this Jeep to ride and drive like a new one.
Engine back from the machine shop late 9/30.
Bored .030. Head and block decked for flatness. Crankshaft turned .010 for rods and main journals. This is pretty much the ideal scenario for a new rebuild with the least amount of material removed as posible tp make it new-like.
Flywheel resurfaced w good ring gear. Pistons pressed on and ready for assembly.
Chassis almost 100% done w grade 8 bolts, stainless lines and riveted brake shoes on the rear. I think riveted shoes is important instead of bonded shoes as the glue tends to dry ou.t The shoes can slip off the steel especially on vehicles that don't get used enough to wear them out frequently
Note the rare last half year of production 1986 Dana 44 shown. You can tell because of the cover and the one piece axles. The Model 20 was an engineering blunder by AMC. They tried to reinvent a better way to make the wheel...err differential and failed. It works under light use and can be upgraded but is inherintly flawed w puny axle tubes and slip fit axle flanges.
Today was an engine building day. Using plastigage, the main and rod journals checked out perfect. Close to the minimum of clearance.
All piston rings gapped and crank and pistons installed.
Meanwhile the tub has been in the honesty booth showing what was under the original paint....shiny metal. Here's a few photos of it before primer. Note the lack of holes like 99.9% of CJS left.
When you're Jeep is this clean and factory straight, it costs less to build, takes less time to build, looks better easier, lasts longer and is worth more. My Jeeps are cleaner because of what I spend and where I shop.
Engine date code. I've been around CJs long enough to see them be beaters for the field, parking lot plow rigs and now, numbers matching originals. Remember, all photos can be enlarged by the lower right corner. The below is the date code on the engine. 510c10 The first number is the year, then month, then c denoting 258 than 10th day. So this 258 engine was made Nov, 10 1985.
On the driver's side of the block is this casting as well. "85"
I usually just glance at the valve cover shape to ID it is of the right era and also the head has the year cast in the front corner as well. Close is good....like 85 cast for an 86. This one actually says 86 which isn't a suprise.
This is a handsome engine with every fastener and part cleaned, blasted and or replaced. I have easily replaced 100 fasteners in this assembly w new grade 8 fasteners of the correct length.
I'll show more photos later. It has am NOS AMC water pump as I have a case of them. I also chose to replace the valve cover with a stemped version as the OEM plastic one is a terrible fire starting, oil leaking piece of crap. Fine if there and not leaking but once it goes, toss it.
Also notice the valve cover I chose says "JEEP" on it. Mopar gets a cut w anything that says JEEP. It costs double of the same unit that says OMIX or 4wd.
Pay attention to the quality of parts your Jeep builder/seller uses. Do they cheap out at the expense of quality or aesthetics to save a nickle?
I mean really, who wants to lift the hood and see this if you have a choice? Btw, this Jeep was called freshly restored and is for sale for $25k w unknown miles.
In seconds in this one photo I can see washer bottle mounted on the wrong side where the jack is supposed to be w the washer hose crossing the whole engine compartment. There is no jack. There's no defrost dump so the cowl water will drop right on top of the starter. It has the cheapest plastic Chinese tanked radiator. The main engine harness wiring is run under the manual brake master cylinder on top of the steering shaft. It's supposed to go over the master cylinder so it's away from moving parts. It may get rubbed thru to fail or start a fire over time.
BTW who "restores" a Jeep and leaves manual brakes?
It even has knock off $50 Laredo hood only decals for good measure. I hate dealers who's first step is to see how little you know and don't know squat about what they're selling. Are they ignorant or dishonest? I've never had any reason to talk to them so I don't know.
That's in one small photo in a few seconds. It would be unprofessional of me to critque the whole Jeep but these guys are very good for my business. I really just intended to show the cheap valve cover on an expensive Jeep and went on an unintended rant.
Back on track tomorrow with hopefully a loaded rolling chassis.
As promised, one rolling chassis
New top of the line BFG AT TKO 31x10.50r15 tires. Not Sport Kings, or Wild Country etc (cheap black round things that look like tires for resell)
On oem extremely hard to find chrome Jeep wheels w exceptional center caps (5 of them)
Engine set w my new USA made leveler made by Trans Dapt. They deserve the plug for having the only one of these I could find made in USA. It cost about triple what the Chinese ones cost and has a patent that with no doubt the Chinese versions illegally copy.
I loathe Chinese goods. The produce cheaper partially because their people are disposable, they don't design anything because just reverse engineeer our stuff and they couldn't care less about the environment....and Americans are short sighted enough to buy this crap and fight amongst our selves.
Who's idea was it to borrow money from this communist self serving country?
Dont forget the all important ground strap that goes from the clean shiny (paint ground away) metal engine block around the rubber engine mount to a bare steel ground spot on the frame w star washers. Wonder why the fuel gauge doesn't work after your engine swap? Ck for this strap.
By the way, like Les Stroud I do all my own camera work and this is a one man build.
I also rescue wayward wooly worms that wandered into the shop. I mean who doesn't like a wooly worm?
Engine set and professionally rebuilt T5 installed w new clutch, pilot bearing, fork boot and throwout bearing
10-14-16 Waiting on t-case and paint. Expected next week.
Resealed 11k original mile Dana 300 installed w driveshafts W new genuine Spicer U-Joints
New Belts, power steering lines & pump, fuel saving clutch fan, remanufactured steering box. New vent hoses and body bushings.
The engine is set on TDC w the improved High Energy Ignition (HEI) one wire distributor and integrated coil installed in a ready to fire position. There is no way I would reinstall the original flawed ignition when this does twice the spark w one component and only one wire (over about 20 wires). I will have to remove the distributor briefly when I manually prime the oil pump to start the engine. That is also why the valve cover is not permanantly installed. I will view the oil coming from the pushrods before I start the engine to ensure it has proper lubrication at the critical start up.
There's always something else to do when you're waiting. In this case I can work on sub assemblies that bolt on to the Jeep when it returns.
I parted out an 11,000 mile CJ this uear because it gad rust that I don't deal with. Other people else gladly bought the body and frame for a lower standard build but I kept all the USA made as close to NOS items for something like this build.
This is the dash wiring in bright, clean connections for this restoration. There is no new wiring as good as the original harness. The so called painless harnesses I have bought in the past always got returned when I saw how many wires weren't preterminated and required crimping or fabrication.
A clean original harness is the right length, gauge and has all the right connectors to do the job the way the factory engineers intended.
You can't reasonable re-use a harness that's been exposed to lots of moisture or salt.
I will use a complimenting West coast harness for under the hood.
Note the low original mileage on the below 6 digit odometer. It and all the other USA made original bright gauges, cables, etc will donate to this project.
The Chinese cables fall apart quickly. The Chinese lights are a funny color. The Chinese gauges look like that same familiar writing you see on every disposable tool they sell at Harbor Freight.
I also have the original heater box looking near new. I of course split and dissasembled it to flush the USA made heater core and inspect it for corrosion. I have a new heater core that weighs less and was made in China. The original heater core is also wrapped in foam to prevent damage from being jostled when the Jeep is offroaded.
Thankfully I didn't need to install the Chinese replacement unit.
The seals for the heater doors were soft and untorn.
I did however remove all the original dry butyl tape that seals the heater box halves shown bottom right in the photo next to the wrapped new butyl tape. The original tape allows the heat to seep everywhere and gives Jeep heater a bad reputation.
Can you really call a Jeep "Restored" without doing this?
Below Jeep is SOLD
Below Jeep here for a day and sold to a caller....
83 CJ7 Renegade 6 cyl 5 speed
Coming Soon 7/20...SOLD 7/22
1980 WIDETRAC Laredo Automatic in Original Paint and very well cared for
Best of both differential generations. Big brakes and better lock outs of 1980 differentials and width of widetrac 82 and up. No custom parts required for this upgrade.
Gorgeous one year only original interior
Original rot free original red paint and only 40k miles.
Look to the left for the JEEPS FOR SALE tab for more photos and info and remember, most Jeeps are commited to before listed on the site.
I generally only put finished products on the site. If you call, details of their finishing can be done your way...tires, wheels, interior, tops etc.
ALWAYS feel free to call to request parts as we have more used 76 to 86 CJ parts than anywhere I have visited coast to coast...
Most Jeeps left last year that we never lislted for sale.
Good products. Good problems!
Thanks for reading.
Specializing in HONESTLY advertised,
preferably rot free 1976 to 1986 Jeep
CJs and quality Jeep CJ used parts
* SPOT WELDS: Original Jeep CJs have factory spot welds down the sides of them where they were assembled in the factory and is a sign of original metal. Jeep CJs should NOT be smooth when you look down the side of them. Smooth sided Jeeps may have been patched or have body filler due to rust.
** ROT: I am sometimes asked, "No rot, does that mean no rust?" In my best attempt to explain this without splitting hairs, rust occurs when paint is scratched or when brake rotors sit for a humid day. It is for that reason I avoid the word RUST as ALL vehicles, even a new one, has rust. ROT by Rudy's definition is rust on metal that under reasonable circumstances can't be sanded away without leaving a rust hole. Rot can be hidden above gas tanks, underneath roll bars etc but in most places on these Jeeps, it is transparent. I also term ROT as bubbles under the paint and generally we don't sell Jeeps with bubbling, flaky rust. If it has it, we will show it in the photos. Bubbling rust may be sandable but is harder to guess at without actually digging at it. Experience gives me an upper hand on what original metal will hold up and what won't but only sanding it makes it factual. I hope this helps explain some more of the ambiguity out of our language and people's different perceptions of rust and rot in our best attempt to sell the best sheet metal CJs left in the world. If you don't mind rust or patched metal floors, sides, frames etc, we are not the Jeep shop for you.
JEEPS FOR SALE
RECENT PAST CJs
Call us Today for a classic Jeep CJ Investment that you can actually enjoy and won't depreciate!
We stand behind our Jeeps and are glad to buy back any CJ we sell if you take care of it and leave room for us.
click this photo to enlarge and see the Hippy on top of his truck...(most photos on the site can be enlarged)
Copyright 2010 Racin' Rudy's CJs. All rights reserved.
CONTACT RUDY: 614-203-1947
Rudy's supporting vendors....
We buy most of our retail items from Trailquest. Click the icon and go to their website. Family owned for about 20 years!
Rudy's Classic Jeeps LLC
19095 State Route 568
Findlay, OH 45840